I know, setting an alarm on vacation sounds like a strange idea, and I won't ask you to do it every day. But if you can get up early once or twice during your trip, you'll see a side of Paris that most visitors miss: quiet streets, empty gardens, the smell of warm croissants when you walk past a bakery, and the big sights with very few people around. Before 10am, even the most touristy areas are calm (the metro is another story, of course). Here is how to make the most of the early morning in Paris.
Why Paris Is Better Before 10am
Fewer People, Even at the Big Monuments
Booking the first time slot at the Louvre or the Eiffel Tower really changes the visit, because far fewer people have entered before you. At the Eiffel Tower, you can walk around the platforms freely and take your photos without fighting for a spot by the railing. At the Louvre, it makes an even bigger difference if you really want to see the Mona Lisa, the Winged Victory of Samothrace or the Venus de Milo: you have more time in front of them, better photos, and much less noise. I love museums when they're quiet, and with the number of visitors at the Louvre, it gets very noisy from about 10:30am. You'll still wait in line for the security check like everyone else, but once you're inside, you'll feel the difference.
Every Season Has Its Morning
Summer is my favorite season, and early morning is when it's at its best. The sun rises very early, around 6am in July and between 6:30 and 7 am in August, so if you're a real early bird and you get up with the sun, you gain several extra hours in your day. The light is really, really beautiful at that time, and the temperatures are very pleasant. And of course, when it's very hot, it's the best moment to enjoy a bit of fresh air before the heat of the day.
The other seasons have their own reasons to get up early. In the fall, the foliage turns yellow and orange, and the Place des Vosges is superb at this time of year, just like the Palais-Royal garden and many small squares around Paris. In spring, Paris is full of flowers: the Square Gabriel-Pierné, a small garden next to the Institut de France, is now well known for its pink blossoms and its pretty photos, and the Luxembourg Garden is really lovely in spring. In winter, the sun rises late, around 8:30am in December and January, so you can watch the sunrise without setting an early alarm, and the low winter light on the stone buildings is very pretty.
What to Do in Paris Early in the Morning
Paris wakes up gently, and that’s part of the charm. Bakeries open around 7am, parks between 7 and 7:30 am, and museums at 9am, so the first hours of the day belong to breakfast, walks and quiet places. On Sunday, the city takes its time even more, and it’s very, very calm before 9 am.
Breakfast, the French Way
If breakfast isn't included at your hotel, or if you're staying in an Airbnb, this is a lovely way to start the day, and you have two options.
The first one is to sit in a café for a real French breakfast, with baguette, butter, jam and a croissant, and do a bit of people watching while the neighborhood wakes up around you.
The second one is a good option on a budget: buy a croissant or a pain au chocolat at the bakery, still warm, and eat it in a park nearby. And if you want the full French breakfast, buy a baguette at the bakery, then butter and jam at a small supermarket nearby, like a Franprix or a Carrefour City (don't forget a knife to spread the butter, the one from your Airbnb kitchen or wooden cutlery from the supermarket!). Having this breakfast on a bench in a park is one of my favorite little pleasures in Paris, and it's the kind of simple moment you'll remember long after your trip, because it's something you would never do at home.
Where to Go While Paris Is Still Quiet
My favorite places in Paris early in the morning are the lower quai of the Seine, the Louvre courtyard, the Luxembourg Garden and, if you wish, the 8am mass at Notre-Dame. At this time of day, you see them the way Parisians do, before the crowds arrive, and you watch the city wake up around you.
The place I'd recommend first is the lower quai of the Seine, the path right next to the water, on the Left Bank. Start near the Assemblée nationale and walk towards the Orsay Museum, early enough to have the rising sun in front of you and the Tuileries across the river. You'll meet quite a few runners on this side (it's a lovely place for a morning run, by the way). If you like walking, keep going to the Pont des Arts, and even to the Pont Neuf and the Île de la Cité.
Just across the river from the Orsay Museum, the Cour Napoléon, the Louvre courtyard with the glass pyramid, is the place for your photos. You'll probably see a wedding shoot or even a fashion shoot (it happens!), but very few people otherwise. And even in winter, when the sun isn't up yet, the photos are really pretty.
The Luxembourg Garden is where you see Paris wake up little by little. Early in the morning, you'll see people running, others playing tennis or doing tai chi under the trees, and often the gardeners at work. The garden gets livelier as the morning goes on, and I find it a very nice way to see how Parisians start their day.
If you're Catholic, you can attend the early morning mass at Notre-Dame, at 8 am on weekdays and 8:30 am on weekends. It's open to everyone, and on weekdays there are only a few people.
An Early Morning Calls for a Break After Lunch
Getting up early has one consequence: by mid-afternoon, the day can feel long, especially since most restaurants in Paris don't serve dinner before 7pm. My advice is to go back to your hotel or Airbnb after lunch for a short break, and a nap if you need one. In winter, it's a way to warm up, and in summer, to cool down, which really helps because very few places in Paris have air conditioning, even the touristy ones (so if you travel in summer, book a room that has it). In spring and fall, your feet will thank you. If you're only in Paris for a few days, you may not want to stop in the middle of the day, and I understand. But trust me, this break gives you energy for the rest of the day, especially if you've planned something for the evening.
You don't need to set an alarm every day of your trip, once or twice is enough to see this side of Paris. I do it very often myself, simply for the pleasure of enjoying my city before the rush, and in a city this big and this busy, I find it very soothing. And since an early morning always starts better with a good breakfast, you'll find my addresses for breakfast or a coffee near each monument, all checked in person, in the Paris on the Spot app (my app!).
P.S. If you go for the breakfast in a park, I share my favorite from the bakery in The Best Viennoiseries in Paris Under €5. And to know whether the sky will be clear for your sunrise walk, have a look at Which Weather App Do You Need For Paris?
Planning a trip to Paris? I made an app for that.
